November 19, 2024
The denim industry is a multimillion dollar market, with jeans and denim styles occupying wardrobes on a global scale. Most commonly used for jeans, the market value for denim as a whole was estimated to be $27.1billion in 2022, and expected to increase to over $35billion by 2027.
From washes and finishes through to fiber sourcing, producing a pair of jeans has a wide reaching environmental impact, suggesting that perhaps it’s time to rethink, and to redesign, the jean with a more considered approach. With the denim industry accelerating in growth, fiber scarcity and reliability is an increasing concern, with global heating, excessive water usage and fertilizer all having an impact on crop stability and success. Despite efforts to widen denim’s fiber basket with alternative options for more security, there's a fragility to virgin crop fibers that calls for a more innovative and circular approach to ensure the future of denim styles.
Beyond the core fiber, denim styles have long been under scrutiny for the vast quantities of water, chemicals and energy that the dyeing and washing stages use. As a result the industry has been quick to invest in machinery and innovations that can reduce the energy required, such as lasers and eco-stone washing, to achieve the lower impact lived-in looks that consumers crave. For many denim heads and heritage brands, these newer technologies aren’t able to achieve the vintage look they desire, calling for further innovation in the space.
In this move toward lower-impact options, and to eliminate waste, innovations and brands in the denim space are pushing towards renewable closed-loop materials and manufacturing methods, with the aim to reduce climate impact and waste, in turn achieving maximum value throughout the products lifecycle, through remake, reuse and resale. As a material renowned for, and created for, its durability it makes sense to keep jeans and denim materials in use for longer, repairing or reworking them into something new.
Partnering with the right players is a key step toward circularity, accelerating closed-loop denim designs, and turning denim that’s no longer fit for purpose into new and innovative designs. Baltija cutmakesew are one such manufacturer who are partnering to bring new life to second hand jeans. After requests from clients, Baltija cutmakesew rose to the challenge to explore new ways to create more responsible denim styles, investigating the key ways in which they can innovate in the space.
Image: BATILJA CUTMAKESEW
Starting off the process by sourcing second hand jeans, Baltija cutmakesew ensures everything is washed before starting the process of sorting what can be used, and how. Initially removing anything that's worn through or badly stained, they then start sorting jeans into five shade categories, before moving on to sub-categorise the shades into fits, taking into account waist circumference and length. They then move onto removing any logos and trims to ensure then denim is ready to be transformed into its next style.
By sorting by shade, they’re also able to mitigate the need for any chemicals or washes, and the environmental impact they create. Working with purely second hand resources ensures highted transparency throughout the process of creating a new product, with newness only added through stitch, trim and design.
Image: BATILJA CUTMAKESEW x A.W.A.K.E. MODE
One of Baltija’s main partners in this space is A.W.A.K.E. MODE who have worked with them to redefine contemporary fashion with their upcycled denim collections. Using a zero-waste formula, the duo repurpose second hand items through the brands signature design language and the manufacturers skillset, creating one off pieces. Working with fit, seam detailing and patchworking to create a range of styles, from jeans themselves through to dresses, outerwear and modern classics.
Beyond its responsible benefits, this upcycled aesthetic is a key emerging trend to keep track of, with catwalk approvals we’re seeing brands such as Chloe using the detail across the FW 24 runways, while iconic high end denim brands such as Rails, Frame and Re/Done are also adopting the aesthetic.
BALTIJA CUTMAKESEW, founded in 1940 are a Lithuanian garment manufacturer specializing in producing occasion wear, formal attire, uniforms, workwear, casual wear, sleepwear and sportswear. Certificates; ISO9001
Please contact either Monika Vrubliauskaite at monika@cutmakesew.com or Alex Ingildsen 🧵✂️👕 at alex@ingildsen.com if you have any questions.
Alex is the owner of byingildsen and member of the advisory boards or advisor for fourteen unique premium garment manufacturers and printing providers, including BATILJA CUTMAKESEW.
