October 23, 2024
Across product categories, in everything from sportswear to leisurewear for indoor and outdoor use, customisation and printing is an essential step in the production process. After centuries of reliance on screen printing, there's a noted shift in the market to other less resource intensive options, with a focus on sublimation, embossing and heat transfers. Below, we explore how the need for change in the textile printing space is driven by growing environmental concerns, incoming legislation and innovation in the printing space.
At present around 3% of global CO2 emissions, and 20% of global water pollution, are attributed to the textile industry, both figures which are set to increase without dramatic action. The global textile dye market alone was valued at $11.1bn in 2022, and is set to reach $14bn by 2027. To mitigate the environmental effects of this demand, measuring and reducing impact will be key, in everything from CO2, to water usage and pollution, energy and waste management.
It’s not just the environmental impact that is driving this need for change, incoming and recently adopted legislation is making change an environmental and a business requirement. In the EU the CSRD, Corporate Sustainability Reporting Directive, required all businesses to disclose any information on ESG practices, along with a plan to meet the directed rules by 2028.
When it comes to textile printing, it’s currently predicted that more than 94% of the worlds printed fabric is created through traditional screen printing methods, according to FESPA, the global federation for the screen, digital and textile printing community. This traditional method is incredibly reliant on water and energy consumption, with analogue systems predicted to use 93 billion cubic meters of water annually, while contributing to over 20% of all industrial water pollution globally. Making a substantial switch to digital printing offers the opportunity to save 95% of industrial water usage, and cut energy consumption by 75%. Looking for solutions elsewhere early will ensure that brands stay ahead of tightening legislations and work to create a cleaner environmental impact.
Switching to alternative printing methods can offer a lower impact process, and a more reactive option that can cut back on lead times, meeting demand without creating excess. In 2022, it was estimated that the digital textile printing market was worth $2669million, a figure forecasted to expand at a CAGR (compound annual growth rate) of 14.4% by 2030. According to research from McKinsey, 71% of brands globally are looking to nearshore their manufacturing by 2025, in part to meet consumer demand and customizing at speed, suggesting that partnering with regional manufacturers will become increasingly important.
Image: Monti Antonio Sublimation Example
Sublimation printing offers a great alternative that is also ideal for more on-demand manufacturing methods, while benefiting from working across a much wider range of fabric bases than standard digital printing. Sublimation processes work by using a combination of heat and pressure to transfer images onto textiles, the process uses a fraction of the water and energy in comparison to traditional methods, in turn offering a lighter impact customisation option. Sublimation printing offers the ideal choice for stretch and sports garments, working best with polyester and synthetic fabrics, such as lycra or polymer coated options, along with cotton/ poly and wool/ poly blends with a minimum of 50% polyester. Heat transfer methods go beyond sublimation graphics and AOP garment printing, to heat transfer branding options, in turn offering a quick update to core items that can be executed on demand.
Image: Epson Sublimation Machinery used by Kirpte
For a more elevated finish, embossing and debossing are effects which use heat to create raised and relief texture in a garment, essentially manipulating the fiber to hold a new form, creating a mark or image that won't fade or wash away. Unlike printing methods, embossing also eliminates the need for any dyes and associated chemicals, creating a lower impact method of garment customisation, relying on just heat, pressure and time. The final product often results in a more premium finish, with three-dimensional patterns, while also working to create more durability in the textile by compressing and densifying the fibers, making products more resistant to wear and tear, an ideal quality for active and sports styles.
Sportswear manufacturers such as Kirpte use these heat based methods to add custom branding, numbers, logos and mottos to their teamwear kits and to bulk production, as the method allows seam to seam application for all-over coverage. The process is great for limited runs or on demand printing, with 50% of consumers now stating that sustainability is one of their top criterias when purchasing new products, this ability to create on demand allows brands to respond to consumer demands, and print in line with requirements to minimize waste and excess energy usage.
To find out more about the potential of lower impact customization options, Kirpte will be at FUNCTIONAL FABRIC FAIR (powered by PERFORMANCE DAYS) on October 23-24th at Hall A2, Booth T10.
KIRPTE, UAB, founded in 1997, fully owned Lithuanian garment manufacturer with own factories in Lithuania together with a partner factory in Moldova specialized in technical sportswear & leisure wear. Technologies available; sublimation, bonding, laser cutting, ultrasonic, taping, embossing etc.
Alex is the owner of Byingildsen and member of the advisory boards or advisor for fourteen unique premium garment manufacturers and printing providers, including KIRPTE.
